Wanneer is een wijn ‘natuurlijk’? Als je het boekje volgt dat volgepropt is met regels en voorschriften voor een streekwijn of een appellation? De Los Angelos Times ging op bezoek bij de Franse rebel Olivier Cousin, die zich aan al dat geregel niets gelegen laat liggen. Hij daagt de overheid regelrecht uit, omdat hij met een groeiende groep andere Franse wijnboeren vindt dat al die regels ertoe leiden dat de wijn niet meer naar z’n geboortestreek smaakt.

Lees wat dwarsligger Cousin er voor filosofie op na houdt:

Natural Wine Exponent Takes France Regulatory Body by Its Horns

The term ‘Natural Wine’ has given birth to huge furore in the wine world in France. So much that it is now at loggerheads with the regulatory body of wine making in France. Olivier Cousin, a small time wine maker has taken the regulatory body by its horns. He is fighting against the system, or to be more specific, against the spread of globalised sameness that is currently dominating the wine world. Cousin is a part of an increasingly popular, often rebellious movement of "natural" winemakers.

The phrase "natural wines" has certain vagueness about it, but it roughly refers to wines that include very low doses, or none, of the chemicals and natural additives permitted in conventional French grape-growing and winemaking system.

The difference between "natural" and conventional wines might be greatly felt on palate. Natural wines are generally considered more fruity, and more expensive. The wines are sensitive and can easily turn to vinegar, and no chemical pesticides or fertilizers are permitted to save struggling crops from disease or bad weather.

Many natural winemakers were either ejected from the approved French appellation d'originecontrolee, or AOC, regulatory system because of their unusual-tasting wines. However, some like Cousin chose to leave because they believed that certification methods actually push for low-standard and industrially and chemically produced wine.

Since 2005 Cousin has chosen to sell all his wines as vin de table. Olivier saidd, "I had problems with the agrément as the wines weren't 'standard'. None of my wines were refused but this was not why I stopped using the AOC. I stopped because the AOC was for industrial wines as the appellation rules permit everything: weedkillers, huge yields, additives etc. “

Being outside the system has its own advantages and disadvantages. Average consumers know little about these wines and they are more expensive. But sometimes natural wines can be at per with conventionally made wines which have dramatically raised their price. This factor is being noticed increasingly and consequently, despite an estimated 30% increase in production costs, the natural movement has gained momentum among producers and consumers, especially as chemical-free techniques have improved.

Wine expert Joshua Adler said that the trend does makes a lot of sense."If you're drinking something that you know somebody made, and there's this personal connection, it might not change the actual taste of the wine, but it changes your experience. And that's what most people want when they drink wine, the experience," Adler said.